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Post by olegburn on Oct 15, 2008 0:12:21 GMT -5
I took the barrel off to "headspace" it(if you can call it that). Now,how tight does one tightens the barrel nut back? Also,what would you do to keep action and barrel from turning while nut is tightened? I made barrel vise,maybe I should make vise that holds action instead? Your suggestions would be appreciated. olegburn
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Post by RBinAR on Oct 15, 2008 3:12:04 GMT -5
I took the barrel off to "headspace" it(if you can call it that). Now,how tight does one tightens the barrel nut back? Also,what would you do to keep action and barrel from turning while nut is tightened? I made barrel vise,maybe I should make vise that holds action instead? Your suggestions would be appreciated. olegburn I normally charge an extra $25 just to know this myself. I've heard this question(s) from time to time. If you want an exact torque using the wrench as provided by Mid-Way go for 100 ft/lbs on the short side and 50 if you use the wrench as an extension. There is a better way for home users but it will require some touch. As you note if you use the receiver wrench in a vise the barrel will try to turn as you tighten. A better way (after you have assembled the rifle) is to take the barrel nut wrench and clamp it in a vise. Attach the receiver wrench as normal. If the vise is off the ground the length of the barrel you can put the action muzzle first into the barrel nut wrench. It will then be suppended in the wrench. Now you can tighten the nut with the receiver wrench (instead of the barrel nut wrench) and the barrel won't turn as you tighten. The key to the above is with the barrel nut wrench in the vise you can't attach a torque wrench handle. Now you need to know how tight to go with the receiver wrench. I've found if you're me you can tighten as hard as you're able with one hand. I know you put some duct tape on your action before you installed the receiver wrench to keep from marring the finish, so another method would be to tighten until the tape spins about 1/4" in the wrench.
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Post by mike3132 on Oct 15, 2008 7:24:03 GMT -5
I don't torque barrel nuts that tight. I only torque them about 35 ft. lb. Mike
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Post by olegburn on Oct 15, 2008 14:14:04 GMT -5
You're right RB-it is not so simple if don't get a proper set-up. Hopefully,tonight I'll have a rig to secure barrel and receiver at same time and I'll try posting pics. What do you put on the threads,if at all? I sprayed BreakFree on them,and wiped excess off,will it do? How important is tightening it so tight? Muchoo questions,heh? olegburn
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Post by RBinAR on Oct 16, 2008 2:25:56 GMT -5
You're right RB-it is not so simple if don't get a proper set-up. Hopefully,tonight I'll have a rig to secure barrel and receiver at same time and I'll try posting pics. What do you put on the threads,if at all? I sprayed BreakFree on them,and wiped excess off,will it do? How important is tightening it so tight? Muchoo questions,heh? olegburn A very small amount of thread sealer won't hurt but I generally go metal to metal. Getting the threads super tight is not a requirement but I would try for 30 ft/lbs or more at least. As I said the tighten the receiver wrench as tight as possible with one hand works great. I've done dozens that and never had one problem. I'll try to provide a picture if possible. Ok the following is a picture of the receiver wrench, barrel nut wrench, and the torque wrench I use to take a barrel and action apart. Note there are two places to connect a torque wrench if you have one. The following image is how some have tried to tighten the barrel nut. If you try it this way the barrel will try to turn in the receiver as you get the nut near torque. This last image is a way you can tighten the nut without the barrel turning in the receiver. If you do it this way you avoid having to have a receiver wrench and a barrel vise in use at the same time.
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Post by olegburn on Oct 16, 2008 17:46:15 GMT -5
I don't have shop tools like yours,RB,so I rigged it myself.Your set-up is real nice though I'm not sure how that will keep barrel from turning. Do you think my set up will work? I put both barrel and the receiver in their own vises and I think it should keep it all from turning and will keep it aligned the way I want. Now I can tighten the barrel nut,right? My only concern is when securing both receiver and barrel is creating some stress as far as alignment between them. Please,tell me if I'm on the right track. Material used: uni-strut, 1/2" all thread,washers and nuts,seasoned oak for vise, 1 1/4" and 3/4" holesaw bits and wood rasp to slightly enlarge openings. olegburn
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Post by KerryB on Oct 16, 2008 21:15:28 GMT -5
RB, I would assume from the location of your fishing rod mixed with your golf clubs that you partake of the water hazards as often as i do? ;D
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Post by Rifleman on Oct 17, 2008 2:14:49 GMT -5
Aww Kerry thats funny! Sorry RB
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Post by RBinAR on Oct 17, 2008 3:50:44 GMT -5
I don't have shop tools like yours,RB,so I rigged it myself.Your set-up is real nice though I'm not sure how that will keep barrel from turning. Do you think my set up will work? I put both barrel and the receiver in their own vises and I think it should keep it all from turning and will keep it aligned the way I want. Now I can tighten the barrel nut,right? My only concern is when securing both receiver and barrel is creating some stress as far as alignment between them. Please,tell me if I'm on the right track. Material used: uni-strut, 1/2" all thread,washers and nuts,seasoned oak for vise, 1 1/4" and 3/4" holesaw bits and wood rasp to slightly enlarge openings. olegburn The reason the method in the final picture will secure the barrel is simple: When you apply torque to a screw friction builds between the threads and the nut. So the tighter it gets the more the threads follow the nut. If you turn the nut you turn the threads (the threads are the barrel) as well. In the last picture notice the nut does not turn the receiver does. So the friction applied to the threads makes them try to stay together and the only motion is the receiver and compression. Your system looks like it will do to me but who knows for sure till you try it. I'm certain the alignment won't distort the action unless you over tighten it won't hurt anything. You should have some way to test the primer entry space before you tighten the nut and if it's the same (or very close) when you finish you're done.
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Post by RBinAR on Oct 17, 2008 3:59:17 GMT -5
RB, I would assume from the location of your fishing rod mixed with your golf clubs that you partake of the water hazards as often as i do? ;D 8-)Well I have drowned a golf ball or two those clubs however are just a decoration I saved from a persimmon set of Hogans my dad used in the 70's. I take fishing a bit more seriously I couldn't go very long without fresh crappie in the frying pan. See I have an ulterior motive.
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Post by E.T. on Oct 17, 2008 5:00:13 GMT -5
Olegburn
Just want to add a suggestion in case you have difficulty holding the barrel from turning if it should turn. By placing the barrel vice blocks near the end of the barrel (smaller diameter) you will have less area surface contacting the blocks that gives less friction hold on the barrel. By repositioning the blocks further up the barrel and increasing the hole size in the blocks to accomodate you will have move surface area the blocks will grab thereby adding more friction resistance to the barrel to keep it from turning when tightening the nut.
Ed
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