|
|
Post by youp50 on Dec 13, 2008 21:06:34 GMT -5
What solvents do you use?
I would like to find something less volatile and noxious than acetone.
Do you think that leaving the plastic fouling in the barrel in is an ok thing to do?
|
|
|
|
Post by KerryB on Dec 13, 2008 21:18:35 GMT -5
I haven't found plastic fouling to be a problem with my rifles. I rarely use anything other than regular bore cleaners, but i admit my smokeless muzzleloaders hold their accuracy better when i have fired several fouling shots and not cleaned. I try not to clean very often and generally just clean the primer pocket in the breechplug and then run a brush through the barrel to knock out the coarse residue.
|
|
|
|
Post by DannoBoone on Dec 13, 2008 22:14:32 GMT -5
Acetone doesn't really work very well.
I used Brownell's Shotgun Wad Solvent in my very rough bore
.50. A soaked patch run through the bore, and allowed to soak
overnight loosened burned plastic up. Another patch run through
the bore next morning would collect very shiney black pieces
which appeared to come from the grooves. It took three or four
procedures before a patch would come out without burned plastic
residue (pieces would be black no matter the color of sabots used).
My .45 PacNor barrel revealed the same when first shot a few
times, but subsequent treatments revealed no plastic residue.
|
|
|
|
Post by E.T. on Dec 14, 2008 9:28:07 GMT -5
Youp50
For cleaning and dislodging plastic fouling I find Butchs does a good job. When applying Butchs I usually apply several wet coats with about a 2-min interval between coats. Light brushing followed with a few patches with solvent run through it works fine for me.
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by encoreguy on Dec 14, 2008 10:15:31 GMT -5
Brownells makes a sabot solvent. It works very well. I have had guns that came out with a clean patch after regular cleaning with top of the line cleaners. Put this stuff in and let it set a few hours and it comes out black. I think those that think they don't have build-up from sabots might be surprised. I have 4 muzzleloaders and I get surprised every time.
|
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Dec 14, 2008 12:55:34 GMT -5
I was really hoping you wouldn't mention Brownell's. It is always a hundred dollar order. I want a set of cleaning jags and then there is the brass screen lead remover for the pistol and... Thanks for the help and I guess I am going to do my patriotic duty and help our floundering economy.  |
|
|
|
Post by deadeye on Jan 7, 2009 19:58:49 GMT -5
Acetone doesn't really work very well. I used Brownell's Shotgun Wad Solvent in my very rough bore .50. A soaked patch run through the bore, and allowed to soak overnight loosened burned plastic up. Another patch run through the bore next morning would collect very shiney black pieces which appeared to come from the grooves. It took three or four procedures before a patch would come out without burned plastic residue (pieces would be black no matter the color of sabots used). My .45 PacNor barrel revealed the same when first shot a few times, but subsequent treatments revealed no plastic residue. dannoboone or encoreguy-would it be possible to look on this brownell's wad solvent container & post the listed ingredients//thx |
|
|
|
Post by edge on Jan 7, 2009 20:18:10 GMT -5
Personally I don't think that a room temperature solvent exists!
IMO, what you have are solvents that break down the powder residue that binds the plastic in place.
Most solvents can be stored in plastic containers so what does that tell you ;D
edge.
|
|
|
|
Post by deadeye on Jan 7, 2009 20:26:44 GMT -5
good point but the one i bought is in a metal can ;D, what i was really after is buying locally the chemical(instead of ordering from brownells-1 little item) that will loosen the plastic however its done!
|
|
|
|
Post by DannoBoone on Jan 7, 2009 21:07:28 GMT -5
Well, the label doesn't exactly give you the recipe, but here's the
listed ingredients:
Aromatic hydrocarbons, Dimethyl ester blend, Dipropylene glycol
n-butyl ether.
And no, it does not come in a plastic container, as does acetone.
The lid is a type of plastic protected by an aluminum liner.
One would just have to use this stuff and realize from first-hand
experience that once used and soaked for a few hours in the
barrel that it does, indeed take out flakes of plastic, ESPECIALLY
if one has a rough barrel. If your accuracy goes straight south
for no other reason at all, this plastic solvent is really worth a
try. (Besides, Iowa needs an economic boost. ;D )
|
|
|
|
Post by chuck41 on Jan 7, 2009 21:45:27 GMT -5
Brownells makes a sabot solvent. It works very well. I have had guns that came out with a clean patch after regular cleaning with top of the line cleaners. Put this stuff in and let it set a few hours and it comes out black. I think those that think they don't have build-up from sabots might be surprised. I have 4 muzzleloaders and I get surprised every time. I looked up this in Brownells site and found this description. "If you shoot sabots in your inline muzzleloader this is the solvent for you. Chemically breaks down the plastic, sabot material, plus, loosens and attacks blackpowder fouling. Special formula evaporates slowly to allow you to let heavily fouled barrels sit and soak. Caution: May remove some stock finishes. Do not store in plastic containers." Sounds like good stuff to me. Now I just have to find enough other stuff to order to make it worth that shipping fee. |
|
|
|
Post by mshm99 on Jan 7, 2009 22:26:08 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by deadeye on Jan 7, 2009 23:24:40 GMT -5
thx all,went to paint store today,was discussing what i might need(slower evapaoration process maybe) owner agreed if he knew contents he has it,however i bought a quart of xylene as a first stab. i started getting that so called "zipper' feeling while loading after approx 450 rounds that was not their before & accuracy went due south on a proven gun & load. something else to chew on & this came from the person who blue's barrels,he has dipped quite a few mz saboted used barrels & after in the dip tank he was removing long strands of plastic. after those were fouled after a few shots their accuracy returned,interesting
|
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Jan 8, 2009 4:33:04 GMT -5
From experience with center fire rifles.
Some will shoot clean. I own a Savage that is a great shooter through a clean barrel. I own a Remington that is a shotgun with out several fouling shots. I want to know where I stand with plastic fouling in my ML.
I had a different Savage Model 99 that the bullets must have been riding on the bullet jacket metal. I cleaned the copper out and the accuracy suffered to the point of no return. I put over a hundred rounds through it without replacing the fouling and sent it down the road. (Use caution when buying used rifles from places like Gander Mountain)
This I believe came from some type of chemical reaction under the fouling that corroded the rifling. From this I have decided that any rifle bore should get clean down to the bare steel at least yearly.
There is something called galvanic corrosion. Basically two different metals and a solution will cause an electric current. The anode will transfer metal to the cathode. Iron will be the anode in a copper/iron mix. In a rifle the only uses sabots, logic would rule out this type of corrosion. Lead is present from the primer compound, but lead is cathodic to iron.
Off to the range this morning with two or three boxes of stuff. I need some base data from my fouled barrel.
|
|
rexxer
Eight Pointer
Posts: 184
|
Post by rexxer on Jan 8, 2009 6:45:09 GMT -5
Would J and B bore paste clean out plastic?
|
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Jan 8, 2009 11:30:41 GMT -5
I am seriously trying to figure that out. I traveled all of 10 feet this morning on my way to the range. The fuel pump on my truck appears to have retired. This evening I will take my ML to the basement and JB the bore and then try the plastic solvent.
I wanted to try an accuracy test with the bore in various states of fouling and different cleaning methods. Trouble is I have no idea what kind of group I will get with 250 xtp and sr 4759.
Whats a fellow to do?
|
|
|
|
Post by chuck41 on Jan 8, 2009 17:09:04 GMT -5
I am seriously trying to figure that out. I traveled all of 10 feet this morning on my way to the range. The fuel pump on my truck appears to have retired. This evening I will take my ML to the basement and JB the bore and then try the plastic solvent. . . . . . . . . . . . Whats a fellow to do?Not sure 'bout you, but I think the first thing I would do is fix that truck. ;D ;D |
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Jan 8, 2009 18:20:22 GMT -5
chuck,
I will get to the truck tomorrow. Right now it is in the back yard and I really don't want to look at it. We used to give our kids a 'time out' when they needed it. It has carried over into my life...I gave myself a time out.
This is the second aborted attempt at this plastic fouling thing.
|
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Jan 8, 2009 20:22:42 GMT -5
She is clean.
I used the following chemicals Hoppe's No9; JB Bore Compound and Brownell's Gelled Shotgun Wad Solvent.
Started with one wet and two dry Hoppes followed by one wet patch. All Hoppes were patched over bronze 50 cal brush. I followed with one JB over a cleaning jag, ten strokes. Then one wet Hoppes and two dry. This was repeated six times. After the sixth no coloring was noted on the dry patches. Following directions I soaked a patch in the Shotgun Wad Solvent put it over the brush and scrubbed a bit. Three dry patches followed. I could see NO sign of any fouling. The Wad Solvent is kind of pretty red. The dry patches got progressively pink then clean. I followed this with one Hopes wet and two dry. Then I put another wet and let it sit until the truck runs.
Use your JB and save your money for different bullets or powders or....maybe a different truck;)
|
|
