Limbsaver recoil pad # 10102

[jims]

I want to put on a Limbsaver recoil pad on my one of my Savage laminated wood stocks. I have a #10102 available. It "looks" like if I slightly reduce the length of the stock the recoil pad will be a close fit, it will make the overall length about the same when installed. If it is a bit too wide I can easily grind whatever is proud.
Anyone use this size Limbsaver on a Savage? Thanks

[rexxer]

Jim

Are you going to shorten the stock yourself?
I have 110-10 limbsaver coming,should be here Mon.

[jims]

Yes, I have done a number of stocks before without problems. I have also a recoil jig but generally do not use it. I have a variety of sanders at my brother in laws that I have access to. Generally after sanding one can barely catch a finger nail on the proud area. If I am refinishing the entire stock then I can make it flush, if I want to save the varnish one can't get as close.

[rexxer]

Never see anybody cut the stock,just curious how a person might do it. Holding the stock square to the world seems like the hard part.

[youp50]

Cheap stock cutting. Now there is a subject I am good at.

You need one circular saw with a new fine tooth blade. Unless you don't have a new blade and the pick the best you have. One pieces of 1x3 lumber 8 foot long and eight long deck screws. Cut the lumber into 4 pieces. Unless you have some scrap somewhere, then you do not need to buy some wood. Avoid the real cheap wood with big knots. You will need to pt a good strain on the wood to hold. And a couple of old leather gloves.

Remove the stock from the action. Use four of the screws and two pieces of wood to firmly hold the stock to your work surface. Fasten it to two saw horses works fine. Just lay the wood perpendicular to the stock and screw each end to the saw horse. Make sure you leave the butt of the stock far enough out to work. Place the gloves between the wood and the stock to protect the finish of the stock.

Lay the other two pieces of wood on top of each other and run a screw through both ends. Back the screws out and place it over the stock, the wood will sandwich the stock. Here I will use a single layer of leather I cut from the gloves to again protect the finish. By now I have to assume you know how much you want to shorten the stock. If you don't take a little off at a time. Measure from the right side of the saw base to the edge of the blade and add that amount to the amount you want to shorten. That is the distance from the end stock to the guide (those two pieces of wood) you want to have. Put the guide over the stock and tighten the screws. Put a pretty good bend in the wood. Square the guide to the existing line of the butt. Now tighten until you think the wood might break having the guide shift when you saw would be bad.

Make your cut, holding the saw against the guide. Probably should have some masking tape on the bottom of the saw to protect the finish. If the stock is wood, I like to put a single wrap of 1 inch wide electrical tape on the stock where the cut will be made, helps prevent splintering.

This has worked for me. I have considerable experience with circular saws. Proceed at your own risk.

[jims]

I did not do anything as elaboate as youp50 but made a jig/fixture of sorts to hold the stock where I wanted and made the cut. I put a layer of masking tape where the cut will be to avoid splintering. My brother in law has Freud or Forester finish blades I believe or his saw.
He also has an oscillating cylinder type sander that really permits sanding the recoil pad.

[youp50]

jims,

Truth be told it is a very crude set up, I am currently trying to figure out how to incorporate a couple of feet of duct tape;)

[richard]

Here is a method I use............Scribe a line around the but of the stock parallel to the existing butt. Then run masking tape up to that line. I use a fine tooth hacksaw and slowly work my way around the masking tape. I continue doing this to get the cut deeper and deeper. Always going around the stock to keep everything even. Eventually your cuts will meet in the middle. A disc or belt sander will do the final truing as long as you do not go past your masking tape.
Richard