|
|
Post by wilmsmeyer on Jan 10, 2009 7:46:14 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by ma on Jan 10, 2009 8:00:16 GMT -5
OH NO! Wilms you have now started something as or more addictive than shooting a Savage. I run over a dozen cameras year round. A few pointers that might help. Set cameras plumb on tree, I sometimes put a stick under the top or bottom to set the face of camera plumb. This does a lot for quality of pics. I use a 2gb card so I can set on high resolution and still have room to store 2,000 pics. I switch cards and view later at the leisure of home. I set camera height at waist to thigh. I set timeout between events a 1 minute as to not miss anything. I set # of shots per event at 2. This will normally get a face and side shot of the same animal for judging antlers. This is sure to take time away from shooting. But I run cameras in about 2 week intervals. Have fun. |
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Jan 10, 2009 8:20:31 GMT -5
I would guess that Bubba is resident trail cam expert. Get him on the line. He got me started into something called 'Home Brews'. They are just a digital camera, a case, a board, and some other hardware.
Mine are based on the Sony P41. I can change the stick or take the camera out and use it as a stand alone or view it the cameras view finder. One very important thing to be aware of is trigger speed. If you are watching a trail crossing it better be fast or the animal will walk away.
I have seen advertising for a camera that shows a fawn in full flight. Stating it was the fastest camera to catch the fawn. IMO the doe tripped the camera and the fawn got caught.
Food plot and mineral sight locations and the trigger speed is not critical. You have the deer hanging out there.
I have had more fun with mine at bear bait sights than deer hunting places. It is nerve wracking to see a bears teeth and gums in your photo. They have been kissing close, but I have not had a camera damaged. I did have one work over the covered cable on a Master Lock cable lock
My way of thinking is a trail cam on a road is likely to become the property of a thief. Some fellows recommend camo the case, there are some awesome jobs with liquid nails and paint. Others take ladder sticks and get them way up in the air and point them down.
I check when I can. At a bait sight I have had almost 200 images before the camera batteries quit.
I set mine approximately 3 feet off the ground. I use sticks to wedge behind the camera and plumb it up.
I like one exposure followed by another 1 second later. Then a 10 minute delay for bear baits. I normally get two or three sets for each bear visit. Deer crossings I just let her rip. I do not want to take a chance on missing a buck after a doe.
Two sites he has sent me to are Hag's House and Chasing Game.
WARNING: Trail cams can be a serious commitment of both time and money. I will not call them addicting. Many members of this board, self included, tend to run to the obsessive side of things. Be sure you are willing and able to be further obsessed:)
|
|
|
|
Post by SW on Jan 10, 2009 8:46:42 GMT -5
My son showed me a camera that will automatically e-mail pictures to your computer. That would be great! The price was great(high!) also. I don't have one, much less more than one.
|
|
|
|
Post by chuck41 on Jan 10, 2009 8:52:28 GMT -5
I bought one last year. It is a cheapie model sold by Wal-Mart and has a very short flash range. Next time I will get a better quality one with the IR flash. Color is very poor on mine, especially at night and the flash range very short. I put it by a feeder and get lots of pictures of deer, raccoons, and turkey. Because of the very short flash range mine is almost useless for random trail placement. Occasionally I get good pictures, but most are not so much. Deer have little fear of my flash camera. They don't even stop feeding when the flash goes off right beside them. The IR ones I have seen just have a bit better picture quality than mine. The following two pics were both nighttime shots. Daytime shots sometimes have better color, but many are washed out and almost useless. Probably because they were taken at early light or dusk.   Have fun. These things are as addictive as an ML10-II. I'm outta here. Heading for Nawlins to pick up a cruise. See you dudes in a couple weeks. Chuck |
|
|
|
Post by 8ptbuk on Jan 10, 2009 8:59:01 GMT -5
Check out this forum on trail cams ( chasingame.com ) It will answer any questions you might have. Trail cams are great they let you hunt all year !!! Hope this helps 8ptbuk
|
|
|
|
Post by CraigF on Jan 10, 2009 13:40:35 GMT -5
|
|
rexxer
Eight Pointer
Posts: 184
|
Post by rexxer on Jan 10, 2009 20:04:24 GMT -5
 This was shot with a Sony p41 homebrew! One of the faster trigger times. |
|
|
|
Post by Harley on Jan 10, 2009 20:19:24 GMT -5
Things I've found most important:
1. Shutter lag (can't do anything about that once you buy a particular model; they all claim to be more or less instant, but most don't come close).
2. Camera placement: Besides the obviously important placement where you think the deer are, be aware of compass direction. Don't place looking into the rising or setting sun.
3. Camera placement (2): The longer I leave a camera in one spot the more likely the weeds and brush will grow and cause multiple false frames.
4. If you are just wanting to confirm deer in the general area, fine, deploy your cameras at almost any time; but, if you are trying to pattern deer for stand placement, the deer pathway your camera detects this month won't necessarily be active months from now.
Harley
|
|
|
|
Post by jims on Jan 10, 2009 20:24:46 GMT -5
To rexxer: Only better if shot with the Savage ML. That will be a nice deer next season, it is good to see some of them made it.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilmsmeyer on Jan 10, 2009 20:50:30 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Lots of good tips. I would really like 4-5 of these. Got to start somewhere.
|
|
|
|
Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 10, 2009 21:28:54 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 10, 2009 21:40:48 GMT -5
|
|
[/img]if this works here a re a couple from last year with my home brew IR sony's