Bedding Pillars or Full Action

[edge]

I was wondering who has bedded their 10 ML, and did you stick with the Savage Pillars or did you opt for a Full Action Bedding job?

I just added a third action screw, and I see no evidence that the recoil lug actually touches anything, so I have decided to bed the action. I am leaning towards a full bed, but am open to suggestions.

edge.

[RBinAR]

I've actually done both and I can't say that there is much difference in function. I have only done the plastic stock so many would know better with the wood.

I guess the question is if you'd like to be able to take the bolt out without unscrewing but one screw?

edge? Now you are not caps anymore and have blue stars are you going to make me put up my knife picture???

[mike3132]

edge,

i bedded a plastic savage stock. i bedded a 5/16 bolt in the blind mag so it wouldn't flex and then ground out the recoil lug contact area with a dremel. i skim bedded the pillars, bedded the recoil lug and the rear tang area. it seem to tighten up my groups some. mike

[edge]

RBinAR said:

SNIP
I guess the question is if you'd like to be able to take the bolt out without unscrewing but one screw?

SNIP
are you going to make me put up my knife picture???

The third action screw will take care of the "bolt screw" and I did make it a Pillar that matches the other two in height. I also am filling in the mag area with an aluminum block which I will bed there.

The knife is a different matter, just don't start waving it around :-)

edge.

[charlie]

My $0.02 .

I would full bed from the rear action screw to approximately one inch in front of the barrel nut.

I also would remove much of the soft stock material
behind the recoil lug and make sure that this area is strong and solid.

charlie

[dave d.]

:)edge,i fully bedded my plastic stock from the rear action screw to just in front of the barrel nut.i carved out around the pillars and recoil lug.i filled in the blind mag half way then bedded the rest.i think it made a difference in the balance of the gun and p.o.i. seems to remain the same.it firmed up the stock and i have shot some nice groups with it.goodluck with your project.

[rdtimmjr]

Wait till you see the picture of my knife ! It may take a while to clean it up and make it presentable.

[DannoBoone]

Or as Crocodile Dundee once said, " That's not a knife...........
this is a knife!"

www.stanleylondon.com/bowiemarineblk4.jpg

[1SHOT1KILL]

Edge,

I machine away the Savage supplied pillars and install my own, then I bed the entire action from the rear of the rear (bolt retaining) screw, too 2.5" forward from the front of the recoil lug.

[edge]

Thanks 1Shot,

Do you bed in front of the recoil lug on the Plastic Stocks also, or just the Wooden stocks? I did add a new Pillar approx. 0.80 in front of the rear pillar so I can remove the bolt without messing with the action, and while I was there I filled in the magazine cavity. I never liked that hollow area behind the recoil lug!

edge.

[1SHOT1KILL]

I have done the synthetic stocks, but mainly the laminated and custom stocks. The magazine well on the synthetic stocks are a pain to fill in but I use pieces of walnut that I cut into undersized rectangles to fit in it the bed it in place. Then I go back and machine the old pillars away, install my own, the bed the entire action, from the rear of the rear (bolt retaining) screw, too 2.5" forward from the front of the recoil lug.

Funny thing, is that I have not added a 3rd screw to a synthetic stock model. May have to do one of my own to say that I have!

[Dave]

I have had mine done exactly as OneShot describes and was pleased with the results. Makes the stock stiffer and keeps the recoil lug returning to the same spot every time.

[savageman]

I have had good success with filling the blind magazine area and bedding the entire action and recoil lug.

Savageman

[edge]

Looks great!

I see that you left the "ramrod spring" in there. Did you have any reservations on that?

It seems that the ramrod puts a lot of pressure on the barrel. I always put the ramrod back in while shooting, but it gives me a bad feeling.

Has anyone come up with a better way to keep the ramrod from falling out while keeping it in the channel?

edge.

[savageman]

I do all shooting with the ramrod in place since I have to hunt that way. It bothers me like you, and I wish there was an alternative without the pressure against the barrel.

Savageman

[SW]

Edge,
I'm not a gunsmith but had my ML-2 professionally bedded by an excellent, accuracy gunsmith. He did it just as described by 1-shot 1-kill described in his post to this question. Edward's Recoil Reducer and Sim's recoil pad helped. Laminated stock. I have an Al ramrod and tapped it just aft of the thimble and put a small thumb screw that holds the ramrod w/o pressure. I shoot the ML w/o the ramrod but it has little effect on pt of impact when in place.

[tm]

I cut an aluminum arrow shaft to the correct length, then istalled a 8/32 thread screw in the end that fits in the channnel and bedded that in the channel so the ramrod slides into that and a slight turn will hold it in place. Works great, but you have to lengthen the channel or shorten the rod a little for the screw. With mine I had to go with a 2613 shaft, which is the biggest Easton makes. I'd post a picture, but I'm not computer smart enough.

[Loggy]

Hi tm.. Glad to see ya here!

[Iowa Dave]

Great forum!
Question: what is the best source, and what brand of pillars should one use on the composite stock? Also, what sources are there for the correct pillar screw?
Dave

[edge]

Thank you everyone for your suggestions, I just pulled the action out of the stock this morning and it feels great!

Whether it will make a difference if the rifles accuracy remains to be seen, BUT the "nut" that holds the trigger has a whole lot more confidence in the rifle and that may be the ultimate accuracy booster!

edge.

[Randy Dunn]

edge said:

Has anyone come up with a better way to keep the ramrod from falling out while keeping it in the channel?

edge.

Hi Edge,
John Okubo's stocks have this aluminum block with a hole through the center, inside there is a spring loaded ball baring that holds the ramrod in AND keeps it away from the barrel. Works great. (you can see it in this unfinished stock photo above the lug slot.


Randy DUNN Western NY

[edge]

Savageman said:

.

I want to thank SAVAGEMAN for posting this picture. Iwant to point something out to anyone bedding the Savage.

Look at this picture, the bedding is black or brown, but in the "trigger" area there is nothing. This is VERY important, you need to put Play Doh or Modeling Clay in this area to prevent any spillover of bedding compound!

ALSO, in the same area of the action there are grooves on either side of the trigger( which you must remove). You will get a mechanical lock between the action and the stock if you do not fill with clay.

Most "kits" come with a release agent, do NOT skimp on using this. For the action I use "PAM" and spray liberally!

If you have added a third pillar, which was bedded at least a couple of days before you do the final beding, then you have the advantage of tightening and loosening screws without moving anything. After two hours loosen and tighten each screw every few hours.

Make sure you really rough up the surface of the plastic stock or thin areas will not stick. In the "recoil lug" area I ground back approx. 1/4 inch.

edge.