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Post by edge on Jul 6, 2004 18:16:54 GMT -5
I was shooting in 90 degree temps and without shade. I was shooting at 200 yards, take a shot walk slowly to the target, come back, split some sabots, load and shoot. First shot good, second shot within 1 1/2 inches, third shot same wait, NOT on target, wait twice as long, within 1 inch of the first, next close, next nowhere! The sabots and I were melting :-) So today I cut a piece of 1/2 inch diameter Alloy 110 Copper 26 inches long. I polished it down to 0.499 over the entire length. I then put a rubber handle on one end. I plan on putting this in an ice chest next time I go shooting. I will need to "swab" the bore after using this, since there will be condensation, but it should pull the heat away quickly. I'll let you know if it is woth the trouble. edge.   |
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Post by RBinAR on Jul 6, 2004 18:33:30 GMT -5
;D "90 degree temps and without shade. I was shooting at 200 yards, take a shot walk slowly to the target, come back, split some sabots, load and shoot."
"Mad dogs and englishmen", one of the things about living in south Arkansas and northeast Texas is the understanding that under no circumstance will I be found shooting in 90 degree heat with no shade.
I'm sure it will help: anything would. You can't underestimate the power of direct sunlight to provide some extra energy.
I was at the range today also and I venture it was at least as hot here as in NJ. I have to be there at 30 minutes after daylight and be gone by 10:00 AM to have a chance and that is under the shade of the range awning.
Steve commented that shooting in this weather may not be accomplishing much and it could cause some troubles but we try the best we can. One thing about it if the sabot don't blow now sure won't in December.
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Post by edge on Jul 6, 2004 20:29:11 GMT -5
SNIP "Mad dogs and englishmen", one of the things about living in south Arkansas and northeast Texas is the understanding that under no circumstance will I be found shooting in 90 degree heat with no shade. SNIP Rarely if ever do I get to shoot more than once a week, and this was my first range session at over 100yds, so there was ZERO chance that I would not go shooting. edge. |
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Post by dave d. on Jul 6, 2004 20:38:37 GMT -5
:)edge were you shooting your bullets or the 180sp's.
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Post by Rifleman on Jul 6, 2004 20:51:26 GMT -5
Just a thought kind of thinking outside the box, I remember a few years back I saw a device that used a co2 cartridge to remove a stuck load from a muzzleloader, I bet some of you guys may even have one. What if this was modified to accept a large co2 cylinder such as used by paintball guns, and modified to fit the savage . Then a mega-blast of ice cold co2 could be forced up the barrel for some rapid cooling. Just thinking out loud here, I was to have received my savage today but my dealer says thursday after a UPS mistake. So I have no idea if this will work, but maybe it could. What do you guys think? Rifleman
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Post by edge on Jul 6, 2004 20:54:53 GMT -5
I was shooting my hollow bullets, the 180 and 200 Hornady SSP bullets.
All in all, I was very happy, the performance was either there or it fell off a cliff!
edge.
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Post by dave d. on Jul 6, 2004 21:00:26 GMT -5
:)edge it sounds like you got a winner there.in the cooler weather that third shot should be right with the first two.
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Post by edge on Jul 6, 2004 21:31:43 GMT -5
SNIP Then a mega-blast of ice cold co2 could be forced up the barrel for some rapid cooling. Just thinking out loud here, I was to have received my savage today but my dealer says thursday after a UPS mistake. So I have no idea if this will work, but maybe it could. What do you guys think? Rifleman I thought of this also, but was a little concerned of the extreme cold shock. I had thought about a hollow tube with lots of holes. You can actually make "dry ice" from a CO2 container and that is approx 110 below zero! That would be a little scary on a hot barrel. edge. |
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Post by Roger_Dailey on Jul 7, 2004 17:42:30 GMT -5
[quote author=edge I thought of this also, but was a little concerned of the extreme cold shock. I had thought about a hollow tube with lots of holes. You can actually make "dry ice" from a CO2 container and that is approx 110 below zero! That would be a little scary on a hot barrel.
edge.[/quote]
I believe there was a commercial co2 barrel cooler a few years ago. It was marketed to the prairie dog shooters. I never heard of any negative effects.
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Post by edge on Jul 7, 2004 18:01:59 GMT -5
I'm sure that it can be done, and if the price is right, I will report on my results :-)
What I am concerned about is a homemade unit that MAY create dry ice and let it contact the barrel!
If you use a hollow tube, similar to my copper rod( perhaps smaller in diameter), and create dry ice inside, you could cool the barrel very quickly BUT without the shock associated with direct contact with -110 degrees.
edge.
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Post by simonkenton on Jul 7, 2004 18:59:51 GMT -5
Rifleman that is an interesting idea about a blast of CO2 up the barrel. Might work. In fact I was looking at some of those big paint ball CO2 cylinders at the store today after reading your post.
You have to make sure to cool the barrel evenly. I tried rubbing ice cubes on the barrel. It cooled the barrel unevenly and blew the groups.
I made a really ugly cooler today, following an inverntion by a forum member a long time ago on the green forum. This is a 4 inch PVC tube and a litte fan that plugs into your cigarette lighter, and a lot of duct tape. Will give it a try today or tomorrow.
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Post by RandyWakeman on Jul 7, 2004 19:32:16 GMT -5
The Underclocked design is an "interesting" approach:   |
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Post by Rifleman on Jul 8, 2004 7:51:52 GMT -5
awesome randy !!
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Post by herman on Jul 9, 2004 11:17:33 GMT -5
This is what I do when it is hot ,I sit under the air conditioner at home or go to the range and take an frozen ice bottle in a ice chest ,with a wet rag,after shooting I dape the rag over the length of the barrel and it helps it cool a lot faster.Seems to work fairly well.
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Post by SavageShooters on Jul 9, 2004 21:50:08 GMT -5
I picked this up from a guy who's heavy into varmint hunting out west. Take a well used and abused large cooler, and using an appropriately sized hole saw put a hole in either end (preferably in line with one another). Then, shove a piece of pipe (your choice of material...I prefer thin walled PVC) through the holes and secure into place with epoxy. Now, fill your cooler with ice. Then just slide the barrel through the pipe to speed up the cooling process.
An added benefit is it can still double as a soda cooler while at the range or at a prairie dog town. ;D
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Post by FLETCH on Jul 9, 2004 22:29:31 GMT -5
Just a thought, but you should wait until the barrel cools down before loading, not reload and wait to cool.
I bought a $24 digital infrared heat gage just recently
and found it a valuable tool, much better than the meat gage I had.
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Post by dave d. on Jul 9, 2004 22:42:58 GMT -5
:)fletch,ijust bought one myself how good does it work.
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Post by FLETCH on Jul 10, 2004 4:09:59 GMT -5
It works. Fast reading and accuracy is good. Hold the
unit a little up from the breach where your powder is or check several places to see where you get the highest temp. You can also point it down the barrel and get the
inside temp. Hold right against the metal for best reading.
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Post by edge on Jul 10, 2004 6:40:00 GMT -5
SNIP I bought a $24 digital infrared heat gage just recently and found it a valuable tool, SNIP. Do you mind sharing the details! Make, Model, Where you bought it. Thanks. edge. |
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Post by RandyWakeman on Jul 10, 2004 6:46:02 GMT -5
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Post by dave d. on Jul 10, 2004 7:04:41 GMT -5
:)edge,i got mine at www.tempgun.com.it was $30 with shipping should have mine early next week. |
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Post by Flintlock on Jul 10, 2004 20:38:56 GMT -5
Anyone ever tried a gas powered leaf blower?  ?It has a long plastic barrel that the rifle barrel should fit in. |
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Post by bubba on Jul 10, 2004 20:58:36 GMT -5
I did take mine in the car, put it in front of the A/C vent and cooled it that way......... looked funny I am sure, but it was hot out!
-bubba
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Post by bubba on Jul 10, 2004 21:02:33 GMT -5
Best to buy them today, one never knows when the price will increase !  |
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Post by edge on Jul 10, 2004 21:42:18 GMT -5
SNIP So today I cut a piece of 1/2 inch diameter Alloy 110 Copper 26 inches long. I polished it down to 0.499 over the entire length. I then put a rubber handle on one end. I plan on putting this in an ice chest next time I go shooting. SNIP. This worked better than I thought it would. The copper draws the heat out of the barrel very quickly. I would say that in about three minutes the outside of the barrel was cooler than the outside air. Since copper conducts heat so fast, not very much of the rod needs to be in the cooler, and all I did was to wipe the water off and insert the rod down to the breechplug and prepare my next shot. edge. |
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Post by DannoBoone on Jul 16, 2004 22:31:42 GMT -5
So today I cut a piece of 1/2 inch diameter Alloy 110 Copper 26 inches long. I polished it down to 0.499 over the entire length. I then put a rubber handle on one end. edge, where did you find the copper tube/pipe with an OD of 1/2"? All I can find anywhere is 1/2" ID. |
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Post by edge on Jul 17, 2004 7:10:53 GMT -5
edge, where did you find the copper tube/pipe with an OD of 1/2"? All I can find anywhere is 1/2" ID. NOT Tube/Pipe, it is solid copper rod. I bought this from McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.coma 3 Ft. piece is about 16.00 ( P/N# 8966K124 ) I did need to polish it down in a lathe to make sure it had a slight clearance! I made it 0.499 and it should be a close slip fit with a COOL barrel. You WILL notice the difference in FIT when you slide it into a HOT barrel and when you draw it back out!!! I'm sure that you could use Brass or even Aluminum both of which would be cheaper AND harder making them less prone to "dings", though they most likely would not work as fast. edge. |
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Post by DannoBoone on Jul 17, 2004 11:23:42 GMT -5
NOT Tube/Pipe, it is solid copper rod. I did need to polish it down in a lathe to make sure it had a slight clearance! I made it 0.499 and it should be a close slip fit with a COOL barrel. You WILL notice the difference in FIT when you slide it into a HOT barrel and when you draw it back out!!! Duhhhh, thanks. You apparently had both ends of the ROD supported. Were you using emory cloth or something else to take it down to .499? I imagine you needed to take care in not using too much pressure to keep it from flexing in the mid portion of the rod? |
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Post by edge on Jul 17, 2004 12:14:19 GMT -5
Duhhhh, thanks. You apparently had both ends of the ROD supported. Were you using emory cloth or something else to take it down to .499? I imagine you needed to take care in not using too much pressure to keep it from flexing in the mid portion of the rod? This rod is very close to 0.500, so it did not take much effort. I used a 5C collet and put it in a lathe leaving about a 3/4 foot sticking out, then moved it out to approx. halfway, then flipped it around and did it all over again. My guess is that I kept the RPMs to about 500 and I used either 180 or 220 emory cloth and finished with Scotchbrite. I doubt that it took more than 10 or 15 minutes total. I see no reason not to go with the Brass which is most likely 1/2 the price and MUCH more dent resistant. It will not conduct heat as quickly, but I do not think that it would extend cooling time by more than 30 seconds or so. edge. |
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?It has a long plastic barrel that the rifle barrel should fit in.
