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Post by DaltonBros on Jun 30, 2004 12:14:12 GMT -5
Have any of you guys ever heard leaving a very small space between the rear of the tang and the inletting to keep the wood from splitting from the recoil?
..........and NO, I didn't screw up a inletting job and looking for an excuse here. ha ha ha
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Post by Douglas Blair on Jun 30, 2004 15:12:34 GMT -5
No not a space but the tang area can cause problems especially when you take the barrel out for a through cleaning. The trick to removing the barrel for cleaning after all the pins, wedges, screws, or what ever is holding the barrel to the stock is removed is to get the barrel started out of the stock at the rear first by holding the gun in one hand about mid way of the barrel with your fingers wrapped all the way around the gun with the gun upside down and gently tap the stock on a soft surface. This will jar the barrel out a bit so you can safely get it out without splitting out the tang area.
You want a "looser" fit at the back of the tang so the recoil won't cause the stock to split and you want to make sure you have a good fit at the back of the barrel where it contacts the stock. This way all of the recoil is obsorbed in this area, and not at the rear of the tang.
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Doc
Spike
Posts: 13
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Post by Doc on Jun 30, 2004 16:38:46 GMT -5
Hello DaltonBros,
I always leave a small gap behind the tang. If you look at pictures of old rifles you will notice a lot of them split or have a chunk of wood missing behind the tang. The purist will not like this, but I glass bed the area where the breech end rest in the stock. I agree that you need a good fit there. I only leave a very small gap, just so it is not a tight wood to metal fit, maybe 20 thousands. I also file a bevel on the edges of the tang.
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Birddog6
Eight Pointer
"If it Ain't a Smokin' & a Stinkin', it's Merely an Imitation"
Posts: 161
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Post by Birddog6 on Jun 30, 2004 17:09:38 GMT -5
Lots of different ways of doing this. On the small bores I leave them tight & on the large bores I want a couple of thousands clearance on the rear of it, then when I assemble the gun I put some wax in there & it appears to be a full fit. Most importantly (as already brought up) is that the breech be fully seated or bedded. If it cannot move, it cannot crack the stock at the end of the tang or break a chunk out of the tang area. Amother point I will bring out at this point is the rear lockbolt. It is important that IF it goes thru or is going to touch the the tang, the hole should have adequate clearance where the bolt goes thru so none of the recoil is transferred into the lockplate. Once in a while you see a crack at the point of the rear of the lockplate inlet & this is usually caused from no bolt clearance or the inlet too tight at the point or both. www.custommuzzleloaders.com |
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Post by Douglas Blair on Jun 30, 2004 17:14:12 GMT -5
Doc, I forgot to mention the glass bedding which I also use on a a large caliber gun (over 45). And I also bevel the end of the tang and also the sides slightly. But I leave no gap you could get a cigarette paper to slip through. I (knock on wood) have yet to have any tang splinter the stock by the method I use. Like I said in the thread above I have a loose inletting around the tang and it take little or no recoil from the gun.
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Doc
Spike
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Post by Doc on Jul 1, 2004 0:31:49 GMT -5
Hello Douglas,
Many thanks to you..GREAT BOARD..
I think we are on the same page, and I agree with Birddog, I am going to try the wax trick..thanks Birddog. I may leave a little to much, but havent had one chunk out yet, but on the other hand I have not tried a cig paper. Maybe about the right size gap. I jusyt make sure that the end of the tang has a slightly loose wood to metal fit, and I think the glass bedding at the breech/stock does the trick.
Keep Yer Powder Dry
Doc Will
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