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bluing
Nov 18, 2008 21:56:47 GMT -5
Post by redneckrob on Nov 18, 2008 21:56:47 GMT -5
hey everybody, been away for a while, trying to recover from the fire we had which totally destroyed our house and just about everything else we owned. i managed to recover most of the guns and am now in the process of trying to re-blue some of them. i ave tried a couple of different cold blues but cannot get them colored to my satisfaction. just wandering what kind of bluing you all have used and to what degree of success you have had with them. i am thinking of trying blue wonder but i am a little tired of buying all these different products that really don't do much.
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bluing
Nov 19, 2008 16:08:13 GMT -5
Post by ozark on Nov 19, 2008 16:08:13 GMT -5
I have cold blued some double barrel shotguns that the barrels were put together with soft solder. You can get a satisfactory job by heating the parts in boiling water and using cold blue along with 0000 steel wool but the process needs to be repeated several times. I would suggest you find a smith that does hot blueing and pay him to buff and blue your damaged guns. It requires hand work and a system of three or more tanks pluse detailed disassembly and assembly but it can be even better than factory bluing. I don't have a clue to what they charge now. I charged between 20 and 35 bucks depending on the number of parts involved. If you had insurance perhaps it would pay the cost. Sorry about your loss. Ozark
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bluing
Nov 22, 2008 18:40:32 GMT -5
Post by rossman40 on Nov 22, 2008 18:40:32 GMT -5
Rob,, sorry to here about the fire, hope everybody is alright.
For good bluing you pretty much have to go to a smith to get a good job as Ozark stated. You might want to check his other bluing jobs, if he lets his tanks get contaminated by not degreasing good or doesn't put a good buffing on the parts the job comes out second rate.
Another alternative is black oxide which is a form of bluing, instead a black-blue glossy finish it comes out flat/semi-flat black. If you go that route there is a bunch of mom&pop shops that do it. I would talk to the shop and see if they do a "hot" process or a "cold" process and if it is mil-spec, like bluing "hot" process is better and if they do mil-spec work your assured quality. You will not have to buff the parts to mirror shine to get a good looking finish. There use to be a shop here in Dayton that did a bunch of work for GM and if you took in the pieces, apart and finished, they would do the black oxide for a case of beverage. I know guys that had complete rifles and pistols done.
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bluing
Dec 4, 2008 15:49:30 GMT -5
Post by youp50 on Dec 4, 2008 15:49:30 GMT -5
Sorry about the fire and glad you are on your way to recovery.
Some time ago I purchased a Savage Model 99 that had been warmed in a fire, the crosshairs in the scope were gone and the finish discolored. It wanted to rust. I finally beat the rust by a double washing with some carb cleaner. Sprayed it on and wiped hard with a clean cloth. I would try a good degreasing prior to any bluing attempt.
Some model 94 Winchesters have graphitic steel receivers and are actually plated with iron so they can be blued.
With that 99 savage I never cleaned the bore with the carb cleaner. I had one of those 4 minute red dot sights on it, always put a hole under the dot when the trigger was mashed. Some time later I read where you need to keep the bore clean of copper deposits. So I got some ammonia based copper remover and cleaned her out. I could not hit a beach ball at 50 yards with the gun after that. I guess the copper was hiding the pitting going on in the barrel and upon removal the bullet just sort of rattled down the bore and off to where ever. Moral being take care of the outside for sure, just don't forget the bore.
An alternative may be black laquer paint. Thats what the guys at Brownells told me when we did my sons 94 Win receiver.
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