Upgrading cost's

[12ptdroptine]

OK so I understand that the sabot is the weak link (other than the nut behind the butt)..So by going to a sabot less barrel or load. The heat buildup isn't a problem ANY more" and do you shoot the same bullet's? Better yet.. Would ya'll give me a COMPLETE breakdown in the advantage's of going to an aftermarket barrel and an accurate cost of the total price's that go along with them. And what all it would entail Thanks all in advance Drop

[SW]

Only go for a 45 or smaller barrel if you want something it can give that's different than what you have AND what you have is bothering you. The sabot isn't a problem except for the wait between shots at the range, IMO. Sabotless is slightly more accurate and there may be less ambient temp effect, IMO. A 50 saboted can have as much velocity as a 45 sabotless with appx 16% more pressure in the 45. So velocity advantage doesn't exist. Much more detailed responses will follow I expect.

[Buckrub]

I don't have a problem with heat and waiting between shots (at the range), even with a sabot. Based on Richard's suggestion, I bought a $4.00 alum rod at Lowe's, stick it in a bucket of ice, and shoot away. I shot 28 straight times last August in 95 degree heat and two million percent humidity, as fast as I could load. Not one issue.

The sabot is the weak link. But it is also a forgiving device. If/when you find the right one, it allows you to load a front-stuffer manually, with probably different loading pressure each time, and have almost identical results each shot.

But as to your question, I'd like to know the answer too. Regardless of how good my gun is, I might get rich tomorrow. Who knows? Last relative that died, all I inherited was a TON of debt, but maybe the next one will be different.

And if I live long enough, the aftermarket barrel might move from 15th to 1st or 2nd on my 'need to have' toy list.

So I'm interested in details too.

P.S.
When I figure costs, I have to figure the cost of someone ELSE doing the work. I've listened to "oh, YOU can do it" too many times and caused too many train wrecks to listen to that very much. I'm a Klutz, that's life, and I just need to work harder and pay someone to fix and build my stuff!

[hillbill]

drop, pacnor barrel - about 400.00 shipped/ standard dd barrel
sizing dies- .448 & .450 from lee 54.00 shipped
wheeler barrel nut wrench 27.95 from optics planet + shipping
barrel vice- you can make yourself
two bastard files, to knurl with......you might already have/ or hdwe store
various bullets,wads,powders, etc

about 600.00 should do........Bill

[rexxer]

Drop

A new pacnor barrel will cost between 385-405 for the stainless barrel. Some people might have their actions bedded at this time. I'm not sure if you can count this added cost because many guys have their actions bedded staying with the .50.If you are going to swap out the barrel yourself you will need a barrel wrench which will run you another 35-40.

The main question to ask yourself is are you happy with your .50.If you have the accuracy that you need and like the way it shoots then save your money.Here are a few of the pros and cons I hear about the fifty on this board!

Looking through a bore scope the barrel looks really ugly.
I can't get it to shoot consistenty.
It shoots good for a few shots and then I get a unexplained flyer.
Shooting 300 grain bullets the recoil is brutal!
Waiting between shots-sabot too hot.
Picky on load combination.

On the good side people say!
Great value for the buck!
Some say they have attained m.o.a. to 300 yards!
Some people were satisfied with their first book load and stayed with it.
Barrel coolers can be used to create shorter wait times.



The .45 has its pros and cons also! Here are a few.
Pacnor is expensive.
Fewer bullet choices.


On the good side
You have a higher quality hand lapped match grade barrel that should have better accuracy than most stock .50s.
You can shoot sabotless with good accuracy.
You have option of shooting light kicking 200 grain bullets.
They seem to be less finicky on getting them to shoot.


These are just a few that I can think of just off the top of my head. I'm am no expert ,just trying to explain a few things I have read. After I have had my .45 a year I will know a little more.

There have been alot of people going to the smaller cal lately for many different reasons. My main reason I'm switching is less recoil while range shooting but still have the option to shoot heavier bullets hunting if felt needed.

This topic has a few raised eyebrows lately so I tried to stay neutral. I think the .45 fills the gap nicely between the Savage .50 and those Bad Bull muzzleloaders!!! ;D

[RBinAR]

Jan 11, 2009 22:08:39 GMT -5 hillbill said:

drop, pacnor barrel - about 400.00 shipped/ standard dd barrel
sizing dies- .448 & .450 from lee 54.00 shipped
wheeler barrel nut wrench 27.95 from optics planet + shipping
barrel vice- you can make yourself
two bastard files, to knurl with......you might already have/ or hdwe store
various bullets,wads,powders, etc
about 600.00 should do........Bill

Whoa boy have I been cheap! For years now I have been converting 10ML's to 45 caliber for less than I should.

Keep in mind when I change a barrel I've been installing A SSS complete flat recoil lug and installing the third pillar. On some rifles I even have provided a different ramrod holder that does not contact the barrel.

Up until two months ago I was charging $575 plus shipping. That with custom made breech plugs that are much shorter, more efficient and stronger than the standard Savage (I provide 2).

After all that I promise my rifles shoot MOA at 200 (not 100) yards.

LOL you let the cat out the bag I see $$$$ In full disclosure I must say I don't pay $385 or more for a barrel but then again I don't get just one.

[hillbill]

RB, looks like I should have talked to you a few months back, but then again I wouldnt get my tinkering FIX would I?

[SW]

RB's barrels/guns have been very well made. I really like the BPs - they are TOUGH! The barrels certainly shoot well sub-MOA thru 200 yds.