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Post by JeffinNZ on Aug 2, 2004 21:21:46 GMT -5
Hi all.
I am getting very good results in my .38-303 (.303 British blown out to .375 on MLE action) using wheel weight.
I know the standard in BPCR circles is 1-20/30 tin lead but the WW is going very well and is FREE.
What do you guys use.
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Post by TSK on Aug 2, 2004 22:09:27 GMT -5
Jeff,
I have good enough results with WW alloy in my 44WCF rifle and revolver and .38-55 rifle. I haven't used them for bullets in my singleshot, I guess because I've gotten good groups with 1-30 alloy and hesitate to try WW alloy because it can vary a lot from one bunch to the next. The free aspect is really enticing tho, pure lead and tin are costly these days, especially if it has to be shipped.
That .38-303 sounds interesting. You make your own brass then or buy it already formed?
Have a good one,
Ted K
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Post by Teleoceras on Aug 2, 2004 23:58:30 GMT -5
Jeff:
I use about a 20 to 1 with my Smith Carbine (.515 bullet). I've tried pure lead and the alloy, and the alloy seems to have been a bit tighter when it came to my groups.
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Post by JeffinNZ on Aug 3, 2004 0:48:51 GMT -5
TSK:
15gr of Green Dot and the case topped off with corn meal pops well annealled brass out beautifully.
It's a dinky round alright with a bit more go than a .38/55. More like a .38-72 really but the brass is easy/cheap to get/make.
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Post by DonSteele on Aug 4, 2004 7:25:17 GMT -5
30:1... Lead:Tin with Black Powder in a 45/70 for long range shooting.
With Smokeless 45/70 rounds WW work great.
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Post by VAshooter on Mar 11, 2005 13:12:21 GMT -5
I use 1 to 30 in my 45/70 with a Paul Jones 540 gr. bullet and Swiss 2F or 1 1/2F powder.
I'm not much of an experimenter unless things are going wrong.
Doug
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Post by WesTx on Mar 14, 2005 23:39:08 GMT -5
Just a note to let everybody inow that, like metal, lead can be annealed or tempered with heat. Lead of any hardness can be hardened by heating at about 400 degrees for 15 to 30 minutes then quenched by dropping into cool water...just remember to be careful about touching the hot sheet the lead sits on or letting the water splash if near other heated objects. Following the same process, but letting the heated bullets cool to room temp with no other help will anneal and soften them.
Have tried doing this with pure lead and have had very little leading in black powder guns. On the other hand, bullets cast of linotype then quenched with water have actually penetrated 3/16 steel fired from a .44 Mag. revolver on top of a stiff charge of 2400. You'll have to experiment to see what you get. Good luck & have fun!
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Post by ourway77 on Jun 7, 2005 4:25:18 GMT -5
Well not sure but my son in law is a radioligist, he brings these viles to me that radiation mediciene comes in. They are a very hard type of lead. I have casted bullets, they come out almost mirror like they shoot great, no leading at all in my 357's and 44's. I have recovered the bullets from our dirt back stop and they have hardly no deformaty at all. My son in law says the radiation associaterd with the viles has long lost it's radiation and are safe. So far I haven't started to glow at night so I guess I'm safe ;D ;D ;D
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Post by flinter on Jun 19, 2005 10:49:56 GMT -5
If the bullet fit to bore is right, the specific alloy should not matter unless you have a leading issue. All my guns like a snug fit between bore & bullet as in the 45 colt with a .452" bore likes a .453"-.454" cast bullet. It's amazing how little it takes to affect accuracy as this same revolver will shoot excellent groups with .452" jaketed bullets while the .4515" jacketed bullets of the same weight & style take on the shotgun pattern image.
I have an M-48A that won't print a group with any jacketed bullet worth considering (read as: shotgun pattern look) yet I use as-cast bullets from a lapped Lee mold (.326") it'll print 1 MOA @ 100 yds.
If you plan to hunt with BPCR, I strongly suggest using as soft a lead as possible considering the lack of velocity and expansion. On the same note, I tend to prefer a bit softer alloy for hunting bullets in the smokeless loads too. If you're only paper punching, expansion is not a consideration and you should have no problem tuning the bullets to the bore no matter what alloy you use. Right now, I can't think of any molds I own that are not tailored to a specific barrel and or load with the exception of the RB molds for the front stuffers.
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Post by quigleysharps4570 on Apr 12, 2006 5:31:39 GMT -5
Plumbers lead for hunting and WW's for playing.
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