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Post by JACKJR60 on Aug 17, 2004 10:47:12 GMT -5
If so I think it would be nice to have an expert's opinion on hide preparation for mounting. I know what I do but it might not necessarily be the best thing. So let's here the dos and don'ts.
Jack
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Post by Tenbears on Aug 17, 2004 15:20:07 GMT -5
I have been a professional taxidermist for over 35 years. One of the greatest concerns to a taxidermist. Is an Improperly cared for Hide. Often the best Thing a hunter can do. Is as Little as possible. Do no excess cutting of the hide. Especially in the brisket area. Many hunters cut up the brisket too far. then cut down the legs from that point. Leaving wings that have to be sewed back onto the cape. The best advice I can offer is to tube the legs about 4 inches. Skin up the neck, and cut it off. Bring the entire head to your Taxidermist Immediately. Let him/her skin the head, and flesh the hide. you will get the best job possible. If it is not possible to bring the head in right away. wrap in plastic bags, freeze. Then do so as soon as possible to prevent excessive freezer burn.
Now I realize there are times when this is not possible such as when in remote locations. Or in cases where one may need to travel. Although I advise having someone familiar with skinning a head do the job for you. It is possible for the average hunter to do the job correctly.
Here is the procedure.
Cut up the belly to where the dark brisket hair meats the white hair. From this point go down the back of the legs where the brown hair meets the white hair. cot around the legs. And skin the upper legs to the chest/neck. Invert the hide doun the neck carefully cutting the hide away from the flesh. All the way to the spinal process. (the point where the skull articulated with the first vertebrae) Then cut from just below the Adams apple rearward to the spine. you will easily be able to sever the head by placing the knife between the joint.
Now cut closely around the antlers. Then slide a flat screw driver between the antler pedical, and the hide, and work it around the antler, to loosen about an inch of hide. Make a cut from the back of the antler rearward to the center of the skull. Then from the other antler to where you stopped the first cut. then make a 3 inch cut from that point rearward down the neck. This will result in a Y incision. Turn the head over, and pry Open the mouth. With a sharp knife or scalpel. Make a cut along the gum line. back to the molars and skin the lips away about 3/4 of an inch. Bring the skull out through this Y incision Skinning along the skull as you go. When you reach the ears. Cut them off close to the skull. and continue skinning to the eyes When yo reach the eyes Be careful not to cut through to the outside. But rather cut the inner eyelid close to the orbital socket. as to come to the front of the eye stay close to the bone. you will notice a gland at the front of the eye, (the Preorbital Gland. if you do not stay close to the bone. you will sever this gland. work your way down to the cheeks by placing your finger into the mouth you will see where the inner mouth begins there is where You cut through to the inner lip skin. Work forward to where you made the gut along the gum line. Then skin to the nose. cut the cartilage as far back as possible. This will free the hide from the skull. Saw the antlers off by cutting down Just behind the eyes. Then from the back of the skull forward to the eyes. Remove all flesh from the hide. including the ear bases. Flesh as close to the lips as you dare. as well as the nose and eyes. DO NOT remove the inner eye lid skin. Or inner lip. instead split them to where they make the transition from Outer to Inner.
Now salt the hide well and roll up. Stand on end to drain overnight. the next day shake out well, and re-salt. Lay out on a rack (in the back country I make a rack from small sticks laid between two Coolers). Not in Direct sunlight. And allow to dry. When nearly stiff. fold up and allow to dry stiff. You have a hide that will not spoil now. Package it up, and it is ready for your taxidermist to turn, Tan, and mount.
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Post by JACKJR60 on Aug 17, 2004 17:16:47 GMT -5
Tenbears, thanks for the great info and also Welcome to the Forum!!  The skinning of the head info is really good as this is the tough part of the job. Thanks again for the information. Look forward to more posts from you about taxidermy. Jack  |
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Post by Loggy on Aug 17, 2004 17:55:27 GMT -5
Hey Tenbears, welcome here as Moderator! Great informative post there. Since my Dad(who was a taxidermist) has passed away, I have Ness Taxidermy in PA do all my work. I never took up the trade. They are the best I have found in my geographic area plus only about 20 minutes from my house. www.wilderwest.com/nesstax/What name do you operate under in Ohio? |
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Post by JACKJR60 on Aug 17, 2004 21:26:58 GMT -5
Loggy, I just happened to be drifting thru here and noticed how many posts you have.. Man you is a Big Mouth!! Jack ;D |
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Post by Loggy on Aug 17, 2004 21:44:37 GMT -5
Loggy, I just happened to be drifting thru here and noticed how many posts you have.. Man you is a Big Mouth!!Jack ;D ;DYeah Jack, just noticed the count too. Where have I been anyway. I better start a movin a little more or I will be a fixed mount here(mouth open mount of course). ;D |
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Post by mamaflinter on Aug 17, 2004 21:53:23 GMT -5
Tenbears I have a question for you.....
Suppose you are hunting on a self guided hunt. You get an animal you consider worthy of mounting but are uncertain of how to cape out the animal.
Is there anyway you can remove the antlers while leaving the head attached to the cape for easier transport? Or would leaving the head on lead to faster spoilage?
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Post by mamaflinter on Aug 17, 2004 21:56:14 GMT -5
I better start a movin a little more or I will be a fixed mount here(mouth open mount of course). ;D Loggy that's ok we still love ya. LOL It looks like you really do enjoy the place for having made that many posts. |
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Post by JACKJR60 on Aug 18, 2004 0:39:52 GMT -5
mamaflinter, if you were to look around the internet Forums you'd see Loggy is a BlabberMouth for sure. I did a Google search on the word Loggy and it gave me 15,600 results. I think that's about how many posts he has floating around. ;D Oh I forgot to mention Loggy is so famous they named a treestand after him. Jack  |
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Post by Tenbears on Aug 18, 2004 3:28:49 GMT -5
Mamaflinter, If you are unable to get the head into the freezer fast. It is imperative that it be shinned and salted. Bacteria begins to grow almost immediately after the death of the animal. refrigeration will slow the growth. But not stop it. Freezing suspends the growth. But does not kill the bacteria. Salting inhibits the growth of bacteria. when the salted hide is allowed to dry the necessary habitat for bacterial growth is destroyed. And the bacteria along with it. Be it bear, boar, elk, or giraffe the basic skinning is the same. Ideally as a taxidermist I would like to see a well fleshed hide. But even a hide that has been moderately fleshed, and well salted. Is in far less danger of spoiling than one that is simply refrigerated.
Now the best, and easiest way to be sure you have a proper job done, Is to have a taxidermist as a hunting buddy. You can get your hide done wile you drink a cold one. Where we Going? LOL.
Loggy: Ness does some nice work. They also have a very impressive shop. You are lucky to be close to them. In fact the entire state of Pa. is filled with some of the best In the country. I am a Member of the PTA (Pennsylvania Taxidermist association) and attend the state convention every year. Although the average price of a mount is a bit higher in Pa. the work is of top quality for the most part. Pa. Is the only state that requires testing of Taxidermist to attain a license. entry level Taxidermist In Pa must have a greater Knowledge of the art than those in other states. Although I have never personally taken the test. I have instructed several students that have. so I know the requirements for the test. A beginner in Pa must do quality work to even get a license. And yes, they Must present examples of their work to the board. 1 whitetail, 1 fish, 1 upland bird, 1 water fowl, and 1 small game. They are Judged on anotomy, quality, as well as overall appearence,
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Post by Loggy on Aug 18, 2004 6:23:49 GMT -5
Thanks Tenbears. Agree with you on their nice shop. I love going in there especially since there is usually a good reason for me to go. ;D Mama & Jack: Maybe I should count more sometimes. Being a CPA I tend to loose count sometimes especially when here. I will try to do my best to watch the numbers if I remember. Next week you will miss me cause I'm going to San Jose all week on business. ;D I do really enjoy this Board and think the addition of this Taxidermy Forum is great. Whoops, I see 501 is coming up. Have a great day, I'm off to do some real counting, I think. |
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Tiny
Spike
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Post by Tiny on Aug 20, 2004 3:20:35 GMT -5
Tenbears,
A Question on your above posts.
As a Hobbist at Taxidermy I agree with all you said.However you didn't mention anything about WHAT TYPE of SALT to use.
During the corses I took,I was told to use PLAIN Salt,never use any that has Iodine in it like table salt,rock salt ect ect.
Is this True?
What Type of Salt should one use?
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Post by Joe B on Aug 20, 2004 20:56:10 GMT -5
yes you are correct on the salt I use table grade fine ground salt without Iodine, on all my capes and hides. ;D
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Post by Tenbears on Aug 21, 2004 4:03:25 GMT -5
Like Everyone else I use to Specify Non Iodized salt. But the fact of the matter Is it does not matter. Iodine. in salt has no effect on the tanning process, or the preservation of the hide. It use to be that Non Iodized salt was far cheeper than Iodized. But today it is not a big difference. If you want pure salt use Canning salt. Table salt has yellow prusaite of soda added to it to aid in the prevention of clumping. However this is also harmless to the hide or Tanning process. So basically what Most Taxidermist Have learned Is, salt Is salt when It comes to salting hides.
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Tiny
Spike
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Post by Tiny on Aug 27, 2004 20:59:38 GMT -5
Thanks Tenbears.
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I was gonna say sumpin' but I forgot what it was! 
The skinning of the head info is really good as this is the tough part of the job. Thanks again for the information. Look forward to more posts from you about taxidermy.
