Lets Begin Mounting our deer

[Tenbears]

I will explain the process for mounting a deer shoulder mount In a series of posts. I would suggest waiting untill the series is complete befor beginning.

I will be happy to answer any specific question.


I have explained how to skin the hide off the skull in the thread "Any taxidermists out there." So I will continue from that point. Before we start we need to take some measurements A from tip of the nose to the front corner of the eye. B. Circumference around the neck just behind the ears.
For those who are beginning, and may not have the time to do the hide all at one time. it is acceptable to place the hide in a plastic bag and freeze after skinning until you have time to turn the hide. it is recommended that the hide be frozen flat. this allows the cape to thaw rapidly, and evenly,

Turning the hide is the most tedious part of the job. One will be working with skin no thicker than a sheet of paper. So care must be taken not to make excessive cuts of the hide, or one's fingers.

I start with the lips. from the inner lip skin where it has been cut from the gum line. using a scalpel, or exacto Knife I begin cutting the lip skin away from the flesh about 1/2 inch from the corner of the mouth on the upper lip. and work around to the same spot on the other side. work carefully down to just beyond where the hair starts on the lips transition from inner to outer and stop. Then go to the nose. here we cut the skin about 1/2" inside each nostril making sure to cut only the skin, and not the cartilage then peal the skin off the cartilage trimming carefully with the scalpel in any tough areas. Until all the cartilage is removed. Now split the flesh between the nostrils to the nose pad.
With a finger in a nostril, trim all flesh, and tendon from the center of the pad. To the nostril and repeat on other nostril. Then go to the corner of the mouth and flesh toward the nostril making sure not to cut the whisker follicles.
Next I do the bottom lip, Starting 1/2" from the corner of the mouth and working around to the same spot on the other side. Work carefully at the front. This is a delicate area. and must be split to the edge. Then flesh from the center of the lower lip outward to where the lip makes the transition to hair.
Now the corners of the mouth are split. work from the hair portion outward to the edge of the lip, removing all the flesh.

Our next step is the eyes. Start from where the inner eye lid has been cut off. and work toward the eye opening. Be careful NOT to cut the follicles of the wishers around the eyes. flesh closely to the Meibomian Glands. These will appear as yellow lines at the point where the eyelid makes the transition from inner to outer. Carefully cut the glands off Be very careful Here the skin is no thicker than tissue paper. then flesh the inner eyelid. Leaving about 1/4" of inner lid.

The ears must be turned. And the cartilage removed. Begin inverting the ear from the back side by cutting the membrane as you pass the fleshy area, begin to cut membrane from cartilage staying close to the cartilage. Then with your finger. Separate skin from cartilage all the way up the back of the ear. Be careful at the ear edge. It is easy to poke your finger through. and invert the ear. For the beginner removing the flesh from the cartilage will make things easier to see. Cut the cartilage 1/2 inch below the ear opening, and across where it drops inward. Fold the ear across the center. and cut through the cartilage along the fold. Cut only the cartilage. Peal the two sections from the inner ear skin. Again the skin here is tissue paper thin. so work carefully.

Flesh the entire hide to remove as mush membrane as possible.

At this point the hide is ready to be salted. Or frozen. If you have taken a long time to get this done, and intend to refreeze. I would recommend applying Stop rot to the hide before freezing.


Lips and nostrils turned.

[Tenbears]

Now, we will discuss the preservation process. Notice I said preservation. Not tanning. Although tanning is the preferred method by most professional taxidermists. It may not be the most cost effective for the novice. Tanning will produce a quality job. That will have less shrinkage during the drying process. And it is believed by many that tanning will result in a longer lasting better looking mount. However, a properly fleshed and treated hide with dry preservative will last the lifetime of most hunters.
First I will discuss tanning, there are many processes of tanning. And many products available to do the job. All seem to produce good results. I intend to discuss the one I am most familiar with. Baysen Tan DLE Is a processed tanning compound that produces a good quality leather type tan.
Re-hydrate the hide in a pickle solution of 5 gallons water, 1 1/2 pounds salt. And 15 oz citric acid. (available from Taxidermy supply co.) soak until supple usually 24 to 48 hours. agitating frequently. And maintain a pH of 2.0.
Rinse and neutralize in a solution of 1 oz Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking soda) per gallon of water. Usually for 6 to 12 hours. Then thin the hide particularly on the forehead, and other thick areas. Shave as much membrane as possible.
Now place the cape in a solution of 3 oz Baysentan DLe and 1/2 pound of salt per gallon of water. This mixture will usually result in a pH of 4.0 adjust if necessary. soak for 3 to 5 days agitating frequently until the hide is white, with no hard spots. And looks like wet leather. Give the cape a quick rinse but not too much, you do not want to wash the tan out. Drain the cape. I place them in an old washing machine on the spin cycle to remove excess moisture. now tumble, or towel dry and mount.

If you chose to use the dry preservative method. Thin the cape, and shave the flesh side as well as possible wash the hide in cold water. Dawn dish soap makes a good cleaner, and degreaser. rinse well so no soap is left. The water should be clear. hang to drain. Or spin in the washer. Apply a liberal coat of Dry preservative to the flesh side. And allow a dusting on the hair side. This is the best bug proffer you can use. as well as helping preserve the cape from the outside. Here I like to tumble the hide. It gives a nice sheen to the hair. But if you have no tumbler. shake the hide out well. This hide is ready to mount.
Check in later, we will discuss preparing the Mannequin for mounting.

[Tenbears]

Before we begin prepping our mannequin, I would like to give you a list of things needed to mount the deer. These are the basics, and substitutes can be made in some instances.

Dremal Tool, the dremal tool is my preference but a drill can be used
Drill.
screw driver bit
1/8 inch drill bit
Cape thread
S needle. A must for getting through tough hides
Stapler
Hide paste or epoxy glue
Rely on calk, or key ear epoxy
Straight pins
White paint
Black paint
red paint
Killer glue *** Only if DP is used
Tanning kit, or dry preservative (DP)
Form
Eyes
Ear liners
wood screws
Popsicle sticks.
Modeling clay
12" x18" x1/4" PLYWOOD
36 grit sand paper

Depending on weather you elect to tan the cape, or use DP the items may very.
Not all epoxy glues are compatible with DP. So it is recommended that one part paste be used with DP.
All of these materials are available through most Taxidermy supply catalogs.

[Tenbears]

Now we will prep the form. The first thing I do is to trace the outline of the back of the form onto the 1/4" plywood. Set this aside for later. Then attach the form to a mounting stand. if you do not have a mounting stand. Screw it to a 1" X 3" board about 2 feet long. use a 3" X 3" block to keep the board spaced off the back of the form. Then screw the 1" X 3" to a work bench. Now sand the entire form with 36 grit sandpaper. Make sure to dull the entire form. But try not to remove any of the forms detail.
You will notice the nostrils are not very deep.



You will need to deepen them to give the nose a natural look. Not one that looks as though the nostrils just end. With the dremel tool, and a 1/8" bit, deepen the nostrils, and hollow then rearward to give the effect they go back into the sinus.



The Lachrymal crease (the gland in front of the eye) will also need to be deepened. Follow the crease with the 1/8" bit Making it about 3/8" deep.

Now cut the lip crease about 3/8 inch deep. At the corner of the lip, increase depth to 3/4" this will give ample space to tuck the corners of the mouth.



Sand, wire brush, or wash with lacquer thinner. The ear liners. and allow to dry.

If you intend to use Relay on calk to glue the ears to the liners. You will need to cut 2 pieces of poster board roughly the shape of the ear liners.

Now fit the antlers to the form. You may need to saw the skull to ensure proper angle and height. drill 4 holes one near the base of each antler. And 2 near the back of the skull.

Then we will set the eyes. Place the eyes into the socket of the form. Making sure the pupil is roughly parallel to the ground. and sculpt them in. making the upper eye lid from potters clay. Do this just before you intend to mount the hide. you do not want the clay to dry before mounting the hide.



The form should now be ready to accept the hide.

[Tenbears]

Preparing the hide for mounting consists sewing any holes in the hide. And installing the ear liners. Before I do this I give the hide a good stretch. to ensure It is relaxed well. I do this by placing both arms into the hide from the rear, with fingers out the mouth. Then spread your arms, and give the hide a twist. Do this several times rotating the hide around your arms each time.
Now insert the ear liners into the ear, and check for fit. The skin of the ear must lay against the liner with no drumming if there is any drumming, remove the liner, and trim to fit.
Turn the ears inside out. And wash with lacquer thinner. Then place a paper towel in the ear. and put a fan on then to dry them. When one side is dry but not stiff, turn over, and dry other side.
If you choose to use the calk method. Squirt about 1 heaping tablespoon of calk in each ear. and work around to coat the ear completely. Insert the liner. And align the edges of the ear. press the skin down against the liner, on both front and back sides. Now staple the poster board carding you made for the ears on the inside of the ear. Making sure it holds the skin tight to the liner.
If you use the Key Ear epoxy, Mix 1 teaspoon each of part A, and B. and place into the ear. work it to the edges, and throughout the ear. insert the liner, and press the skin tightly against the liner. it may be necessary to make cuts in the bottom of the inner ear, to allow the skin to lay against the inner ear but. work glue to the bottom of the ear. And smooth out any excess. make sure ear edges are aligned. Only mix enough ear epoxy for 1 ear at a time. as it will begin to cure before you can do 2 ears. Do the same thing on the other ear. And leave the hide sit for about 15 minuets. the epoxy will set. In that time.

At this point the process Varies depending on weather you are doing a full tan, or mounting with dry preservative.

With a full tan, fit the skin over the form Making sure the brisket, and throat patch are aligned, if the skin is too tight in the neck area, you may need to sand the form down a bit to make a nice fit. If all is Okay. Then install the antlers. Place the antlers on the antler block. Making sure they fit level, you may need to skim with 1/4" plywood to achieve the most aesthetic appearance. then screw the antlers to the form. Using the 4 holes drilled earlier. Sculpt the skull cap into the form using potters clay.



Mix 2 equal portions of Killer glue part A, and B. and apply to the skull plate at the base of the antlers. Tight against the burrs. and forward to the front of the eyes, being careful not to apply glue to the area where the ear buts will go. Place the hide in position. Begin sewing. I usually start 3/8" inside the curve of the antler hole. with the first stitch from the hair side inward, then pass the needle through the thread. And pull tight. every subsequent stitch is done from the inside out to the fork of the Y. Tie off the thread, and begin on the other antler hole all the way back to the tail of the Y.
At this point I roll the mouth back, and apply glue to the face, and muzzle of the form. Taxi the hide into position. and begin tucking the eye lids under the clay around the eyes.





Then with a popsicle stick, I press the lachrymal gland into the crease. And place pins in the back of the gland to hold it in place. I then go to the lips, rotate the form upside down, and tuck the upper lip first. Making sure the nose is in the proper position. then the lower lip on top of that. Tuck the lips down so they have a natural look. Then place pins into the crease every 3/8" and push then out of sight. (note. when pinning the front of the lip. Be sure to angle the pins so they do not come through into the nostril.
Return the form to the upright position, and tuck the nostrils into the form. Beginning at the rear corner. and pack each nostril with saran wrap. Or a piece of wal-mart plastic bag. this will hold the skin against the form. And keep the nostril open.
Pull the hide up from the rear of the form and roll to the antlers. Now apply a coat of glue to the entire form. And pull the hide back down. again Make sure the brisket, and bib are straight. Work hide into all creases. Staple the hide to the back of the form.
Position the ears in place, and insert Potters clay through the openings. Work the clay around the but of the ear until you have a smooth transition. then paper clip strips of poster board on the edges of the ear, to ensure a crisp edge.
Now cut out the outline you made on the 1/4" plywood. about 3/4" smaller than the outline. Remove the form from the mounting stand, and screw the plywood to the back of the form. Install a hanger, and hang to dry. Check regularly to insure nothing moves through the drying process.

[Tenbears]

Mounting Using Dry Preservative. With Dry preservative (DP)I usually recommend a dextrene bases paste. As some epoxy glues will clabber when in contact with DP. This is a paste that comes in dry form, and is mixed with water. Hot water works best. But please all to cool well before use. as the high temperature may adversely affect the hide.
I like to mix the paste to the consistency of whipped cream. Although some may prefer a thicker paste. I find the thinner version dries faster, and has less pooling in the lower portion of the mount.
The basic procedure is the same, and can be done throughout in the same manor.
I however choose to spread an even coat of paste over the form from below and just in front of the eyes. All the way down to the base, with the exception of the brisket. The paste makes it much easier to taxi the hide into place. Everything else is done just as it is with a tanned hide. You must be sure to mix a bit of Killer glue about the size of a marble of each part A and B. to place around the anther pedicals. this keep the hide from pulling away from the burrs. The beauty of the dextrene paste is it can be cleaned up with water. As where the epoxy glue must be cleaned with Lacquer thinner.
Just before stapling the hide to the back of the form, I apply the paste to the brisket area

[Tenbears]

The Finishing Touches, After the mount is dry, we will need to put the all important finishing touches on the deer. Start by looking the mount over good. make sure all non permanent pins are removed. With a small wire brush, clean the lip crease of and residual paste, and brush the hair inside the ears to ensure any dries clay that may be present is remover. Wash the eyes with a damp paper towel. you may need to scrape off a bit of excess glue along the edge of the eye.
Mix some Epoxy sculpt, and smooth out the ear canals. Then look around the eyelids where they come in contact with the eye. Fill any gaps, and smooth with a wet finger. Place a bit in each nostril. and smooth out with a wet Q- tip.

There is some painting required to finish the mount. Some can do the job with an artist paint brush. I prefer an airbrush. I feel it make a far better Job.
If you are using a paint brush Edge the eyes with black. Then with a gray wash feather them back a bit. Blacken the nose, and use the gray wash on the lip line.
Then with off white spray paint. Lighten the inside of the ears to a natural shade. and lightly brush a bit of dusky pink into the ear canal. Now paint the nostril off white, and use the dusky pink in the back of the nostril.
If you have an airbrush. Start with the off white, lighten the ears to a natural state. then do the nostrils to where the hair begins. Next use Dusky pink. Dust it in the ear canals, and feather it outward a bit. then sprat the rear of the nostrils. Next go to cocoa brown, (which actually looks gray) of paines gray. Dust a coat around the eye where there is no hair. This will usually dry dark brown. and the lip edges. And inside the Lachrymal crease. With black, edge the eyelids. Then paint the nose black. dust a fine feather along the edge of the hair in the nostril.
Whichever method you use now the remainder will be the same.
Spray a light coat of gloss clear on the nose. Clean any paint from the eyes.
If you choose to mount the deer on a panel. Screw the panel to the back of the mount, and install a hanger. smooth out any ruffled hair. And your deer is done.

[Tenbears]

Now, That everyone has the basics. With hunting season just around the corner. Lets get cracking. give it a try guys and gals. And let me know how things go. I sure would like to see some of those first attempts. Who knows. we may have the next world Champion in our midst.