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Post by bubba on Jan 2, 2005 10:41:09 GMT -5
I bought a bunch of once fired REMINGTON 300 win mag brass for my usage. Allegedly, this brass came from the factory testing of guns.
Now, I have once fired brass that I have only polished, and it seems that it feeds in my ruger 300 win mag just fine without sizing.
This concerns me that my ruger has an odd/large chamber.
What do you all think?
I might add that I am not overly impressed with the groups outta the ruger, not bad but certainly not great.
@ 100yds, I would bet on a better group outta the savage 10ml than the ruger.
Any thoughts?
I do not have go/nogo gauges for the gun, nor do I currently have a casehead gauge for the fired rounds.
-bubba
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Post by MarkKw on Jan 2, 2005 11:36:19 GMT -5
Ruger is generally very good about customer service, or at least they were anyway. I would contact them and see if they will offer to test the rifle for you. I know a guy who called and asked why he could not get groups from his 77/22 and they said to return it. For the cost of shipping they replaced the entire rifle in a few days at no further cost. Every so often a boo boo is going to get through and if you have any doubts, best to have it checked by the ones who know it best.
As for once fired brass, I will only use un-sized brass in the same rifle it was fired from. If you have more than one rifle in the same cal and only do a neck size, you had better keep them clearly marked and separated. As for brass fired in someone elses rifle, I first discount that it was once fired because most times it is not. Next is you don't know what gun, what load, ect was used so you have no clue if the brass is oversized, streched beyond help, cracked, etc. By the time you get done cleaning and checking and worrying, you're better off just buying new brass and being done with it. Case point, used 45-70 brass is going for $.50 to $.71 a piece on the auction sites while I walked into Cabela's and purchased brand new R-P brass in 100 count bags for $.30 each (actually 29.99/100 plus 6% sales tax for a total of $31.79/100 or $.32/each Now I have 300 rounds of brass that I know is new and good and I can track it's use from the start and still save over 20 cents a piece by not messing with someone else old junk. That's if you're buying brass. If you're getting it free, then by all means re-size, clean and inspect it very well before using and toss anything that even remotely looks questionable. Just remeber, force is equal and opposite and that force at which the bullet is being propelled at is also pushing back at your head...don't take chances.
Oh, I'd consider annealing the brass before sizing too. Once you fire it in your rifle, you should have no problem only doing a neck size rather than FL.
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Post by bubba on Jan 2, 2005 12:39:47 GMT -5
I bought 500 rds of this stuff, at a very competitive price. The brass is very clean and looks great, I think that I ownly found 2 cases to discard out of 500, they were 7mm mag, not 300 mag.
I dont think that it is the brass that is at fault, just seemed to me that if it were fired previously at the factory, it should be kinda difficult to chamber in my gun.
Thanks for your input!
-bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 2, 2005 14:56:29 GMT -5
Bubba chambers vary. Ruger barrels are not too impressive to begin with. I would suggest loading a light load with cheap bullets and fire forming the brass to your rifle. That is only if you don't sell the ruger and buy a 700 first, which is what you will probably end up doing if you want a shooter.
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Post by bubba on Jan 2, 2005 15:40:49 GMT -5
got it half right, sell the ruger and buy a tikka, they shoot rings around remington, and they have a nicer trigger out of the box then remington has after you muck with it and make it semi unsafe.
finnish workmanship I guess !
-bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 2, 2005 16:27:44 GMT -5
So Bubba just how accurate is a tikka on avg. Better then 3/4 moa? As far as the 700 trigger, it is no problem to adjust it down safely, if you dont muck with it. You just got to know how to do it right by the numbers. I can send you that information if you would like.
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DaveK
Eight Pointer
Posts: 150
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Post by DaveK on Jan 2, 2005 17:36:18 GMT -5
I agree with the brass. I either buy factory loads the first time or new brass. Actually I love brass that has once been fired in my gun. I find I actually get a better round if I do a partial full length sizing, rather than a neck sizing. Don't ask me why, but so far it works in all the rifles I have loaded for.(22 Hornet in 1885 Browning,Rem.222 in 722 Rem,6mm Rem in '98 Mauser,25-06 in '98 Mauser,270 Win in '98 Mauser,30-40 Krag original as issued in 1898,30-06 in 03A3 Rem.). If I am stepping on toes here let me appologize in advance. I have yet to see a tack driver Ruger. I have no idea why, because I have never owned one. Maybe it is the guys that own them and not the gun at all. All my c-fires are at least under 1/2" at 100yds or they are out of here, if I can't find the problem. I love the Rem. 700. The snipers in Viet Nam used them for their accurate ways, so that is good enough for me.
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 2, 2005 19:44:40 GMT -5
The snipers use them in Iraq too (albeit a highly modified version as was the vietnam era version,the M40) .
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Post by bubba on Jan 2, 2005 20:01:00 GMT -5
So Bubba just how accurate is a tikka on avg. Better then 3/4 moa? As far as the 700 trigger, it is no problem to adjust it down safely, if you dont muck with it. You just got to know how to do it right by the numbers. I can send you that information if you would like. On average, it is about 3/4 MOA. The nice thing is, every load with every weight bullet I put in it (so far) from min load to max load powderwise has all shot less than 1in, and pretty much the groups within a givin bullet weight, shoot to the same point of aim. I think that for a 6lb, 3oz rifle, that is terribly difficult to achieve, even for you Rifleman! This should make you grin, of course it has a lewy on top of it I have had two rugers before this one, with a nice trigger (timney) they would shoot MOA, not much better. The one I have now will put two in one hole sometimes, and then throw one 2.5 inches in some direction! I know how to adjust the remington trigger, I just think that the DESIGN of the trigger leaves some things to be desired. If you dont believe me, remove the action from the stock, look in the little peekaboo window, adjust the sear engagement to minimum and still functional, place the safety ON, pull the trigger and watch the two mating surfaces pull apart from each other.......... sorry, I dont care who makes that, that design sucks, and hence the factory trigger pull/sear engagement is ruff at best. I have a 700 vs in 220 swift, got a super light trigger on it, I dont use the safety, and I dont load until I am ready to shoot. Its nice,, but I dont trust it as is. Sorry if I stepped on any toes, but these is my opinion.... dont get me wrong I like 700's too, they are my second favorite rifle, they use to be first until I bought a tikka. Have you every shot one Rifleman? You might be converted if you do! -bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 2, 2005 20:28:42 GMT -5
Bubba I have shot alot of Sakos which I really like. I am sure the Tikkas are nice too. Tell me if this is right, Tikka is now owned by the same parent company as Sako , and they market to a little lower price range. Also I was wondering if the performance with the tikka you experienced is typical or not. I mean is this a first tikka for you or have here been others that performed as well?
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Post by E.T. on Jan 2, 2005 23:09:26 GMT -5
Rifleman The Tikka T3 actually is surprisingly accurate out of the box and my 300WSM did produce 1” groups with factory ammo at 100 meters as advertised. My trigger is set at a hair over 2lbs. and is still crisp. There is also a model that has a rear set trigger configuration if you want a front hair trigger. The action is so smooth that I had to open the bolt a few times to see if in fact a cartridge was cycled in the chamber. If an opportunity arises I do recommend you try one. For what its worth I have never seen an article written that down played the Tikka T3 and know of only one other owner (not Bubba) of such a model that got the same out of the box results. The only adverse effect of such a light rifle is barrel jump but some weight in the forward portion of the stock tamed this condition in mine that made holding technique a little more forgivable. Ed T
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Post by MarkKw on Jan 3, 2005 4:38:21 GMT -5
I don't know how they are not but I shot two Ruger #1's years back and both had no problems placing 5 rounds all touching at 100 yds. I can't recall for the life of me right now what the cal's were but I was well pleased with them. I would not doubt that things have changed at Ruger just as they have at every other mfg with the "cheaper = more profit" attitude.
BTW, rumors around other places say that Sako, EEA and Savage have either alloy or heat treating issues resulting in guns failing. I have not checked on any of it personally, don't know if it's limited to stuff coming from the euro block or what, may want to do some investigations into this if you're considering buying.
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Post by charger on Jan 3, 2005 18:21:14 GMT -5
Hey bubba Read what I posted under" three good steps of case prep" on this forum. Might get you goin.PM me if its grey bud
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Post by charger on Jan 3, 2005 18:23:18 GMT -5
P.S. The chamber you have wqas cut with a sharper reamer than the one you got the brass from. No biggy
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Post by bubba on Jan 4, 2005 7:39:58 GMT -5
Bubba I have shot alot of Sakos which I really like. I am sure the Tikkas are nice too. Tell me if this is right, Tikka is now owned by the same parent company as Sako , and they market to a little lower price range. Also I was wondering if the performance with the tikka you experienced is typical or not. I mean is this a first tikka for you or have here been others that performed as well? This is the only one I have had. I have never heard of oen that didnt shoot tho. beretta 'bought' tikka, but the pieces are still made/assembled in finland I believe, using a sako barrel. I take it back I had a sako as well, it was more picky about its load, but it did shoot. Rifleman, the best shooting rifle of any rifle I owned was a remington 700 LSS in 7mm ultra mag, shot about .25 to 0.3 MOA with factory loads (140 nosler part) and a reasonably cheap lewy vx-II 3-9. The ar-15 from RRA was second best, shot better than most other bolt guns :-) -bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 4, 2005 17:53:54 GMT -5
Bubbaaa don't tell me you sold the 7mm ultra?
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Post by bubba on Jan 5, 2005 6:37:28 GMT -5
Bubbaaa don't tell me you sold the 7mm ultra? yep, dont recall why, guess I sold it to buy the tikka. Hey, dont laugh, I have dun much dumber things before!
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Post by RAF on Jan 5, 2005 11:38:25 GMT -5
When it come to brass for loading I do several things. I do buy some new brass but also pick up used brass at the range. There al lots of people who don't reload andgo to the range with factory ammunition. It's amazing they don't pick up after themselves. I make the assumtion that it's only been fired once and I take the brass home and full length size it, then fireform it to my rifle, then neck size. The brass is carefully checked before I use it.
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Post by scott41069 on Jan 5, 2005 21:05:17 GMT -5
Raf, we pick up Brass at the local range also. Cheapest place in town to get used 7SAUM Brass.....
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Post by bubba on Jan 15, 2005 17:03:21 GMT -5
well, dang if it aint something !
I loaded up some 150grainers, same cases and guess what, I got 1.28inches outside-to-outside grouping, or just under an inch with 30 cal bullets (C-T-C).
Perhaps it wasnt the brass as opposed to the gun doesnt like the 165grainers in combo with what I stuffed into it.
I dunno, but the starting load with the 150's worked great. Too bad a guy is coming to buy that dam thing soon ! Figures, plus I shot that group almost rapid fire so that I could warm my hands on the barrel !
At any rate, there is some closure, the 165's didnt work in that gun with the powders I had, oh well.
-bubba
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 15, 2005 20:26:45 GMT -5
bubba, nexttime you decide to sell something, wait a week and see if it's still a good idea. you would probally still have two good shooting rifles. JK LOL.
PS- just saw Rem 2005 cat. did away with 700 sendero and didn't see any heavy barrel guns except in light varmit vs and vls. Have the new XCR (Extreme condition Rifle). Saw it in a 270wsm. may be my next toy.
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Post by ourway7 on Jan 16, 2005 7:29:58 GMT -5
Have a Remington Sendaro in 300 Remington Ultra Mag. Topped with a Mildot scope, great shooter. Too heavy to carry use it for crop damage hunting from stands with sand bags etc. all long range shooting. Only does can be shot, harvest quite a few does during this period that starts April 1. Seems as though since crop damage permits used on where I hunt it seem the quality of the bucks has improved, maybe just my imagination. Lou
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Post by bubba on Jan 16, 2005 18:19:48 GMT -5
bubba, nexttime you decide to sell something, wait a week and see if it's still a good idea. you would probally still have two good shooting rifles. JK LOL. PS- just saw Rem 2005 cat. did away with 700 sendero and didn't see any heavy barrel guns except in light varmit vs and vls. Have the new XCR (Extreme condition Rifle). Saw it in a 270wsm. may be my next toy. well, I already have a replacement on the way from Minnesota I also see that remington doesnt list for 2005 the 700 bdl ss/syn DM model anymore either -bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 16, 2005 19:06:59 GMT -5
Hey Lou, How does that 300rum sendero shoot?
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 16, 2005 22:02:08 GMT -5
bubba, what ya got coming
ow7 - looks like our sendero just became collector items LOL
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Post by bubba on Jan 17, 2005 10:00:28 GMT -5
700 ss/syn/dm 300 win mag
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 17, 2005 23:19:36 GMT -5
brain fart - dm?
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Post by bubba on Jan 18, 2005 10:33:04 GMT -5
sorry dancoman Detachable Magazine (DM). Now, if only everyone thought like me ! -bubba
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 18, 2005 11:10:46 GMT -5
"Now, if only everyone thought like me ! "
Maybe that wouldn't be such a bad thing....
YEAH RIGHT ! ;D
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 18, 2005 21:58:46 GMT -5
bubba - remembered what dm meant about the time I hit the post button - Hey it was late.
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