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Post by rks1949 on Jan 22, 2005 0:07:51 GMT -5
How many of you ONLY neck size,or Full length size. I have found that by neck sizing,after a few loadings,I have to full lenght size to get the brass to fit right in my rifles. I know that if you neck size it will make your brass last longer,but how many loadings do you get before it is nessary to full lenght size? Ron S
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Post by RAF on Jan 22, 2005 4:26:07 GMT -5
I've never had to full length size any of my brass. I'm not sure what's causing your problem buy I'm sure someone here will know.
Neck sizing is supposed to make you brass last longer. I've never seen a case seperation in mine but have notice that the neck starts splitting after about 7 or 8 firings. That's easy to see and the brass is discarded.
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Post by MarkKw on Jan 22, 2005 6:53:59 GMT -5
rks1949, I suspect you have a chamber problem, maybe little wide on the run-out maybe nothing more than a burr or divit in it. Get some new brass or factory loads, whatever as long as you get 100% brass cases, no steel or bi-metal's. Use a sharpie or similar marker and put a line on one side of the base from the primer out using the headstamp as a reference point. Use this mark to line up with something on the rifle, or place it strait up. Fire ten round all of them indexed to the mark the same exact way then inspect them very carefully. I'll be willing to be you'll see a pattern between them which will lead you to your problem. This of course assuming you trim your length, yadda, yadda...
RAF start anealing your brass! I have '06 case that have easily been loaded 30+ times.
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Post by RAF on Jan 22, 2005 10:24:10 GMT -5
rks1949... I've been thinking about your problem and after Marks comment about a chamber problem I wonder if you're not getting some buildup in your chamber. A quick check and cleaning might solve the problem.
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Post by TKO on Jan 22, 2005 10:57:21 GMT -5
How many of you ONLY neck size,or Full length size. I have found that by neck sizing,after a few loadings,I have to full lenght size to get the brass to fit right in my rifles. I know that if you neck size it will make your brass last longer,but how many loadings do you get before it is nessary to full lenght size? Ron S If neck sizing works for a couple of loadings and then things won't fit. I would suspect that you need to turn down your necks. Brass flows with hot loads and this condition is aggravated by anything with a sloping shoulder (like a 220 Swift) anything under 25 degrees can be a problem with hotter loads. If you have a tight neck dimension in your chamber, or an artificial tightness from carbon build up, this will aggravate the situation, also. My guess would be a tight neck demension in the chamber. If you neck turn, it won't be a problem. ;D |
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 22, 2005 18:36:12 GMT -5
I just neck size my 7mmum - about 3 or 4 loadings is all i get before i start see wear - had more porplems with primer ports than anything else
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acal
Eight Pointer
Posts: 128
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Post by acal on Jan 24, 2005 22:11:02 GMT -5
I just neck size my 7mmum - about 3 or 4 loadings is all i get before i start see wear - had more porplems with primer ports than anything else Belted cases have always had a short lifetime. Some reloaders try to headspace on the neck rather than on the belt to increase case life and accuracy. |
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Post by rks1949 on Jan 25, 2005 10:31:07 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. guys. It gives me something to think about. I will check it out. Ron S
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Post by MarkKw on Jan 25, 2005 14:21:16 GMT -5
Belted or not, the dies should be sized in such a manner as to not allow a whole lotta play between case and chamber. I've owned guns with chambers on the big side and you can see it when you inspect the fired round. Dies are sized so that when the case is run through them, it will pass the low limit of chamber size. Working the brass large amounts will definitely cut its life span no matter where it headspaces. If you are only getting a few loadings from brass, you should check a fired round dimensions against a re-sized round, if you have a major difference, you need to consider having your dies tuned to the chamber or the chamber. Opening up dies is not difficult thing but it needs to be done by someone very familiar with the process and testing of same. I had a re-sizer for my .308 opened up to only size the neck fully and case very slightly just enough to ensure positive feeding. Had a local machinist do it who is very familiar with gun work and not being pressured for time on the project his fee was about $20. With BN cart's you need to watch the neck thickness too, this will bite you big time and could end up blowing the rifle up in your face. The less sharp the neck angle, the more it seems you'll see thickening of the neck itself. Case point, the sharp necked .300 Savage will not have as much neck creep as a .308 win despite the fact that both can be loaded ballistically equal.
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 25, 2005 20:55:45 GMT -5
what about primer ports - the problem I'm having is the primers ( from same lot)are seating way to easy - you can almost push in my hand. this only happens after about the 3rd or 4th reloading
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Post by Rifleman on Jan 25, 2005 21:56:29 GMT -5
Dancoman, some would say that it is sign of either inferior brass or even possibly high pressure.
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 25, 2005 22:24:14 GMT -5
the first I loaded was with rem fac ammo brass -
Loaded with 941/2 grs reloader25 and 150 swift scirocco-
great bullet have you tried them
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Post by TKO on Jan 25, 2005 22:32:03 GMT -5
what about primer ports - the problem I'm having is the primers ( from same lot)are seating way to easy - you can almost push in my hand. this only happens after about the 3rd or 4th reloading Dancoman, It wouldn't be Federal brass would it? |
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 25, 2005 22:36:50 GMT -5
I would guess that rem would use there own brass
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Post by MarkKw on Jan 26, 2005 5:34:54 GMT -5
I've never had a problem with primer pockets on anything but shogun cases. Got me on this one and perhaps a call to Sierra's tech line would be a good thing.
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Post by bubba on Jan 26, 2005 11:13:06 GMT -5
I had that problem with some once fired federal brass right from the factory - some of the primers fell out during shipment !
weird - they dont guarentee that it will be worth anything for reloading.
Sounds to me like someone either used too large of primers or that the there is heavy pressure and is stretching the case head.
either way, time to chuck em (my opinion).
-bubba
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Post by TKO on Jan 26, 2005 12:32:05 GMT -5
I would guess that rem would use there own brass Sorry, when you responded to Rifleman you said "the first I loaded was with rem fac ammo brass", so I assumed you switched brand  The reason I asked about the brass possibly being Federal was that they are known to produce brass on the soft side and for having primer pockets loosening up quick with warm loads.  Guys loading 5.56MM to Nato specification avoid Federal brass like the plague for this reason.  |
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Post by Kudzu on Jan 26, 2005 21:07:36 GMT -5
Sorry TKO didn't mean to throw you off.
I've just recieved my new shipment of 7mmum brass from rem. have already started to, as bubba puts it , chuck em. LOL
Rem. is the only brass I have found for the 7mmum. Any leads on others.
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Post by TKO on Jan 26, 2005 21:51:34 GMT -5
dancoman, Didn't realize that you were talking about a Remington Ultra Mag. I need to read the fine print ;D I don't think that anyone else makes brass for this yet, other than Big Green. Kinda like my .450 Marlin . . . Hornady is the only show in town for this one  |
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Post by whyohe on Feb 20, 2005 21:51:11 GMT -5
dancoman i think win makes brass for the 7mm mag? i will check with a friend of mine tomorrow who loads for his. though i think it is nickle plated.
checked reall quick oninternet and found winchester, nosler and hornady brass in a minut so just look around.
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Guys loading 5.56MM to Nato specification avoid Federal brass like the plague for this reason. 
